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Beyond these refuges lay another spectacular sight: la Mer de Glace, or “the sea of ice,” France’s longest glacier, bordered by dark gray moraine and towering, snow-streaked peaks. It is losing about 130 feet per year due to global warming, and because the ancient glaciers that once lumbered through this scenery are responsible for the vine-friendly soil, I’m doubly grateful to have seen it.
Astonishingly, there is a little cog railway up there. After a steep train ride back into Chamonix, we walked along the Arve River to the QC Terme spa. Their next slated opening is in New York City, but while the new U.S. Spa might feature as many saunas as the Chamonix one-which has enough to rival Finland, including one that doubles as a cinema-I’m not sure the Manhattan skyline can match Chamonix’s finest asset: a large heated outdoor pool directly facing the intensely dramatic Alps.
Perhaps, by now, we should have been immune to the amazing views. From our room at Auberge du Bois Prin, a sumptuous version of a Savoyard wooden chalet, Europe’s tallest mountain, Mont Blanc, appeared so close it practically balanced on our balcony. At the restaurant, owner Emmanuel Renaut-a chef himself at the three-Michelin-star Flocons de Sel, 30 minutes away in Megève-has installed the exceptionally talented (and exceptionally young, at 25) Xavier Aubel as chef. Sommelier Delphine Borner matched Aubel’s terrific dishes with a succession of obscure and delicious local wines that made me pine for the vineyard visits I had missed, like Edmond Jacquin’s, which is just three minutes’ walk from Carrel’s. Whether you love skiing, mountaineering, or wine tasting, there’s always another slope to discover.
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