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You can carefully open the leaf pouches and get rid of the caterpillars inside and remove and destroy any leaf masses you find.
Treating with an organic product that contains Bacillus thuringiensis kurstaki is another option, but you must apply so that the product gets inside the cupped leaves. As a last resort, you can consider using a pyrethroid insecticide to kill the caterpillars, but you need to apply to get contact on the caterpillars for it to work properly.
All in all, it’s not something to worry much about.
Why your hydrangeas aren’t blooming:
It is likely that your hydrangeas are losing flower buds due to winter cold, late-spring frosts or deer eating the buds. Mulching the plants and wrapping them with burlap may help get them through the winter, but those are long-shot maintenance techniques.
Pruning at the wrong time can also remove flowers. Do not prune them back hard in late winter or early spring (as is commonly done with Annabelle hydrangeas).
As the flower clusters of your hydrangeas are fading in late summer, prune just below the flowers if you want to reduce the size of the plant. Then in spring, prune just above the first set of buds. Give the plants extra time in spring to leaf out before determining whether or not the stems are dead and need to be pruned back.
Why your hydrangeas may have changed color:
Soil pH affects the flower color, producing more blue in acidic soils and pink in slightly acidic to alkaline soils. Add elemental sulfur in spring and fall to lower the pH of your garden soil surrounding the hydrangeas and improve the chances for blue flowers.
Your best bet is to explore replacing your current hydrangeas with a new, more reliable cultivar of bigleaf hydrangea or a different type of hydrangea that will be much more dependable for your garden.
Tuck them in come winter so they’ll thrive again next year.
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