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Chicken God Is Great Coffee Is Good And People Are Crazy Shirt, hoodie, tank top
Fashion and intellectual culture often meet at Dior, and Maria Grazia Chiuri’s spring 2021 collection, conceived during a time of vast societal transformation, was no exception. The designer, who lives in Rome, drew inspiration from “To Cut Is to Think,” a 1997 essay written by the late Italian art critic and curator Germano Celant, who passed away from COVID-19 earlier this year. “Cutting structures language, but also clothing,” wrote Celant. “It is an intervention into the traditional conceptions of representing and seeing a body or thing, and thereby produces a new sensation.” Chiuri brought a “new sensation” to founder Christian Dior’s iconic Bar jacket through the addition of laces that allow it to be cinched tightly to achieve the classic wasp-waist silhouette, or worn loose, over lace dresses and wide-leg trousers. She also looked to the personal wardrobes of two of her favorite female authors—Susan Sontag and Virginia Woolf—for the reinvented simple white shirt (by turns, it became a tunic or a dress) and ample coats in heathered fabrics, which both featured prominently throughout the collection. The later were styled with coordinating peekaboo bralettes, a very Chiuri pairing. —Alison S. Cohn
Wales Bonner Chicken God Is Great Coffee Is Good And People Are Crazy Shirt, hoodie, tank top
Grace Wales Bonner showed her spring 2021 collection via an original film by the Jamaican artist Jeano Edwards and with a digital publication titled Reflections on Essence. Bonner began a three-part series of collection that explores the diasporic connections between Britain and the Caribbean last season. Essence was the second in the triptych, and explored the early ’80s dancehall music scene in Jamaica. For the menswear in the collection, that meant reworking and reinterpreting Adidas tracksuits and other sporting sets. The women’s looks were more polished with shirting and tailoring interspersed with more languid silks and crochets, all done in a soft and easy palette of white, cream and black. —Kerry Pieri
Cecilie Bahnsen
Cecilie Bahnsen is a sort of intellectual romantic, a designer who leans into an ethereal beauty while imbuing it with something steady and enduring. For this collection, the Copenhagen-based designer had “a woman on a journey across a landscape” in mind, and was inspired by Hashimoto Shoko’s ’70s black-and-white portraits of Goze musicians, James Turrell’s immersive light installations, and a P.S. Krøyer painting of a summer night by the sea in Denmark. These weren’t just esoteric ideas: The Turrell colors showed up in bright pink and green pieces. But the collection was mostly black and white, which calls to mind the black outfits worn by the blind Japanese women musicians in the photographs and the dreamy white gowns of two women walking on the beach in Krøyer’s painting. The looks were all a bit dreamy, like they might float off if the breeze hit just right. —Kerry Pieri
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